From the day the last ice melts in the spring to the formation of the first flows in the winter, we itch for what we cannot have. Instead of sitting around pining for some ice to climb, why not use the off season to build your strength and endurance? Most of us can't get outside to climb on a daily basis, but the friendly neighborhood climbing gym (Metrorock!) offers myriad opportunities to train hard.

In this article, I will focus on two types of strength training: endurance and power endurance. Whats the difference? Well, do you remember that time last season when you were nearing the top of a long route and even though the climbing wasn't very steep or challenging, your forearms were on fire? That would be due to a lack of endurance. Okay, now think back to a time when you were on a steep, aggressive pitch. You tried to power your way through the crux, and ended up falling. After you sat on the rope for a minute and tried again, the same move that was spitting you off the rock felt trivial. That means you need more power endurance.

Exercises: Now that you know what you want to target in your training, lets get to it! In this article I will list a few drills that target endurance or power endurance.

Endurance:

1. 20 minute traverse. Hop on the wall, either the bouldering or route sections, and traverse nonstop for 20 minutes. Bring a chalk bag and some dedication. In this drill, you should try to hit up the gym at a slow time (mid afternoon?) because crowds will make it even more difficult.
   

   Pros: You don't need a partner. Just zen out and don't let go.
   Cons: Crowds can make this really hard to complete. Plus it can be boring.



2. Kryptonites. I chose this name for the drill because by the time you finish, your body will feel totally spent, like Superman in the presence of kryptonite. You need a patient belay partner for this exercise, because they will be belaying you for about 30 minutes straight. First, choose a climb of the hardest difficulty that you can reliably send (ex. 5.11a). Climb up and lower down. Without resting at all, find another climb an entire grade easier (ex. 5.10a), climb up then down climb it. Next, find a climb a grade easier (ex. 5.9) and climb up and down twice. Finally, bump down another grade (ex. 5.8) and go up and down four times. When you finish, you'll be a sweat drenched enduro-monster. Strong climbers can build up to doing this twice a night. Remember, don't rest between or during climbs or you will be defeating the point of this exercise.
   1. Climb up your hardest climb you can always send.
   2. Climb up and down one grade lower than step 1.
   3. Climb up and down twice at one grade lower than step 2.
   4. Climb up and down four times at one grade lower than step 3.

   Pros: Can be done on a crowded night, since you find a route and hog it.
   Cons: Good luck using your arms after this. Opening your car door will feel like a V5 move.

Power Endurance:

1. 4 by 4's. Pick a set of 4 boulder problems in the gym that you can definitely send. For example, if you are a V4 climber, select some V2 and V3. With as little rest as possible, climb the set of 4 boulder problems 4 times (total of 16 climbs). This will get your muscles conditioned to pull challenging moves, repeatedly. I suggest selecting overhanging problems.
   

   Pros: This works really well, you'll quickly see results.
   Cons: New climbers who spend 5 minutes on a V0 will become extremely annoying when you're trying to move rapidly from problem to problem.



2. Intervals. Choose a steep boulder problem that you can consistently send, but that challenges you. Climb it, then rest for a set amount of time. The rest interval can be at minimum the time it takes you to do the boulder problem, or at maximum twice the amount of time it takes you to climb it. Climb it again, and rest for that same amount of time. If you can make it through 5 cycles of climb/rest, then move on to a more challenging problem.
   

   Pros: This is a great one to do with a friend. You rest while they climb, they rest while you climb. It keeps the motivation up and adds a fun/social element.
   Cons: Its quite repetitive.